iPad Wi-Fi Logic Board Replacement

  • Step 1 Display Assembly

    • If your display glass is cracked, keep further breakage contained and prevent bodily harm during your repair by taping the glass.

    • Lay overlapping strips of clear packing tape over the iPad's display until the whole face is covered.

      • This will keep glass shards contained and provide structural integrity when prying and lifting the display.

    • Do your best to follow the rest of the guide as described. However, once the glass is broken, it will likely continue to crack as you work, and you may need to use a metal prying tool to scoop the glass out.

    • Wear safety glasses to protect your eyes, and be careful not to damage the LCD screen.

  • Step 2

    • Insert a metal spudger between the top edge of the display assembly and the rear panel assembly.

    • Rotate the spudger away from you to release the tabs along the top edge of the display.

    • Insert a second metal spudger between the top edge of the display assembly and the rear panel assembly to keep the tabs from snapping back into place.

    Tip* "ONLY WITH METAL SPUDGER* heat it with a lighter till its warm to touch, then slide it like a butter knife. it reduces chances of chipping glass.

    I've found that by using a thicker iPad tool dents the back less(not at all if your careful) and start prying just under the volume button and working my way down works better as the metal clips are on all sider except the right side.

    It would be really helpful to point out where all the clips and tabs are, and to show a picture of them (unbroken), so you know what you're trying to release.

  • Step 3

    • With one spudger, work your way along the right edge of the iPad.

    • The front panel is held to the aluminum back by metal clips on the top, bottom, and left sides. The right side has plastic tabs which slide into recesses in the backplate.

    • Once the clips are released, lift the left side of the front panel up and slide it to the left to clear the tabs from the aluminum backplate.

    Its seems easier to undo the clips on the left and bottom by levering them with an iPad tool and pusing the clips in from the edge with another tool when i can visually see them. One the right side, bottom and most of the left side is done there isnt much need to do the top as it will slide off if moved about a centimeter

  • Step 4

    • Lift the display assembly away from the rear panel assembly by its bottom edge.

    • Do not attempt to remove the display at this time, as it is attached to the rear panel assembly.

    By it's BOTTOM edge.

  • Step 5

    • In the following steps, you will disconnect the three cables attaching the display assembly to the logic board. The cables are for the following components:

      • Digitizer

      • Ambient Light Sensor

      • Display Data Cable

  • Step 6

    • Use the edge of a plastic opening tool to flip up the retaining flaps holding the digitizer ribbon cables in their sockets on the logic board.

    • Be sure you are flipping up the retaining flap, not the socket itself.

    • Pull the digitizer ribbon cables straight out of their sockets.

  • Step 7

    • Use a plastic opening tool to remove the ambient light sensor connector from its socket by gently prying upward.

  • Step 8

    • Disconnect the display data cable from the main board by flipping up the metal retainer by its black plastic pull tab.

    • Pull the cable connector away from its socket.

    • Pull the connector parallel to the face of the logic board.

    IMHO, unhooking data display cable from the other end is preferable to the above location, since the cable itself is sealed or taped onto the assembly.

  • Step 9

    • Remove the display assembly from the rear panel assembly.

  • Step 10 Logic Board

    • Use the edge of a plastic opening tool to:

      • Pry the side button connector up off the logic board from underneath the wires.

      • Pry the speaker connector up off its socket on the logic board from beneath the speaker wires.

    • Carefully flip up the ZIF ribbon cable retaining flap on the socket near the headphone jack.

    • Be sure you are prying up on the retaining flap, not the socket itself.

    • Pull the headphone jack ribbon cable toward the left side of the iPad to disconnect it from its socket.

  • Step 11

    • Remove the following screws securing the logic board to the rear panel assembly.

      • Two 4.56 mm T5 Torx screws.

      • Two 3.76 mm T5 Torx screws.

    确定是T5吗,为什么在这个拆解里是写T4,我都糊涂了

    iPad Wi-Fi Teardown

  • Step 12

    • Use the edge of a plastic opening tool to carefully pry the dock cable connector straight up off the logic board.

    • Lift the logic board out of the rear panel assembly.

    Hello, what kind of adhesive should i use when i put the new battery?