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Before disassembling your iPhone, discharge the battery below 25%. A charged lithium-ion battery can catch fire and/or explode if accidentally punctured.
Power off your iPhone before beginning disassembly.
Remove the two 3.6 mm P2 Pentalobe screws next to the Lightning connector.
Pentalobe P2
I prefer to remove the SIM card as the very first step since it's safer to do so while the phone is fully assembled.
I stripped one of the two screws - at a dead stop.
Tools used on this step: iSclack $24.99 The next two steps demonstrate using the iSclack, a great tool for safely opening the iPhone 6 Plus that we recommend for anyone doing more than one repair. If you aren't using the iSclack, skip to Step 4.
If the plastic depth gauge is attached at the center of the iSclack, remove it now-it's not needed for larger phones like the iPhone 6 Plus.
Close the handle on the iSclack, opening the suction cup jaws.
Place the bottom of your iPhone in between the suction cups.
Position the iSclack's upper suction cup against the display, near the home button.
Open the handles to close the jaws of the iSclack. Center the suction cups and press them firmly onto the top and bottom of the iPhone.
Hold onto your iPhone securely and close the handle of the iSclack to separate the suction cups, pulling the front panel up from the rear case.
The iSclack is designed to safely open your iPhone enough to separate the pieces, but not enough to damage any of the display cables.
Peel the two suction cups off your iPhone.
Skip the next three steps and continue on to Step 7.
It's very difficult if you want to remove a cracked screen. The suction cup and Islack won't work. Does anybody know a better way?
I use Scotch Tape, shipping tape. Put a couple of layers over the crack screen. That seals it so you can use the suction cup to remove the front of phone.
I used the plastic pry took and the spudger to open it up. I place the pry tool dead center below the home button and was able to put some pressure around the seam and the top popped up enough for me to get the spudger in there to hold it open and then work my way around with the plastic pry tool.
Apply clear packaging tape to screen. Then suction cup to that.
Use clear nontextured tape place that over the phone screen. Refer to any guide that addresses replacing a shattered screen
I know it's tough with cracked glass. You just need enough to get in a plstic pry tool or guitar pick. Then you can pry it apart. Just be patient, I cannot stress that enough; the electronics are very, very small and fragile.
If you don't have an iSclack, use a single suction cup to lift the front panel:
Press a suction cup onto the screen, just above the home button.
Be sure the cup is pressed securely onto the screen to get a tight seal.
Avec la ventouse, l'ouverture est brutale, tout s'est déclipsé d'un seul coup. Faire attention.
English Please!
With the sucker, the opening is brutal, everything was cleared at once. Pay attention. (Paul's comment translated by Google)
While holding the iPhone down with one hand, pull up on the suction cup to slightly separate the front panel assembly from the rear case.
Take your time and apply firm, constant force. The display assembly is a much tighter fit than most devices.
Using a plastic opening tool, begin to gently pry the rear case down, away from the display assembly, while continuing to pull up with the suction cup.
There are several clips attaching the front panel assembly to the rear case, so you may need to use a combination of the suction cup and plastic opening tool to free the front panel assembly.
Be extra careful here. If you don't take your time, your front panel may jerk back on you, causing you to overextend and break the front camera/mic flex cable; happened to me. Slowly peel back the front panel, opening it no more than 90º.
watch out for the left side of the phone the adhesive bunches up around the inner clips, i didn't realize it and the upper left of my screen cracked pretty bad. But this guide is awesome follow every direction to the letter
Pull the plastic nub to release the vacuum seal on the suction cup.
Remove the suction cup from the display assembly.
Pull the home button end of the front panel assembly away from the rear case, using the top of the phone as a hinge.
Open the display to about a 90º angle, and lean it against something to keep it propped up while you're working on the phone.
Add a rubber band to keep the display securely in place while you work. This prevents undue strain on the display cables.
In a pinch, you can use an unopened canned beverage to hold the display.
Be careful If we leave the screen connected and set it to 90 degrees, the speaker / sensor flex may break. With an opening of 60 degrees it is convenient to completely disconnect the screen. The headset's flex is short, and if we put it at 90º, it can break. Guiding me from the images of iFixit, I have broken two cables.
Español:
Cuidado. Si dejamos la pantalla conectada y lo ponemos a 90 grados, el flex del altavoz/sensor puede romperse. Con una abertura de 60 grados es conveniente desconectar enteramente la pantalla. El flex del auricular es corto, y si lo ponemos en 90º , se puede romper. Guiándome de las imágenes de iFixit, se me han roto dos cables.
At 60º the display will block access to all the screws and the phone would be practically unserviceable, so I'm having trouble making sense of this comment. The cables on a factory original display are pretty tough and designed with enough slack that a 90º angle is no problem. Same with any decent aftermarket display.
If you look at the enlarged image, you can see how the flex cable from the camera / speaker is in tension. This is my opinion. Sorry for my bad English
Si usted se fija en la imagen ampliada, puede ver cómo el flex cable de la cámara/altavoz está en tensión. Esta es mi opinión.
Perdón por mi mal inglés
Several clips along the top edge of the front panel form a partial hinge, allowing the front panel assembly to swing open like a book.
During reassembly, align the clips just below the top edge of the rear case. Then, slide the front panel upward until its top edge is flush with that of the rear case.
I would recommend protecting the screen once the display is free and the suction cup has been removed. This will help avoid any possibility of accidental scratching of the display crystal while the remaining steps are being performed. I used an inexpensive screen protector then removed it after reassembling and testing are complete.
Remove the following Phillips screws from the battery connector bracket:
One 2.3 mm screw
One 3.1 mm screw
for the iPhone 6 Plus, all screws were Phillips #000
Thank you :)
The screw circled in red won't come out and I'm using a 1.2 screw driver
I had difficulty removing the 3.1mm (iPhone 6 Plus / Phillips #000); had to give it significant downward pressure to get it started.
stripped the 2.3mm screw attempting to remove, had to use excessive force to successfully remove
The Phillips bits provided in the kit would not engage the Phillips heads enough to loosen them. Luckily I had my own small screwdriver set that worked like a charm.
Same issue. Could not remove the screw. Dead in the water.
Remove the metal battery connector bracket from the iPhone.
Was not able to remove the battery connector bracket as one of the cable connectors was glued/stuck to the underside. Instead moved the bracket out of the way to disconnect the battery. Care should be taken not to over bend/stretch the ribbon cable.
That may be just the foam connector adhering to the bracket. If you pull up gently and twist slightly it should separate.
It was the foam connector, and it did twist free with a gentle pull
Use a clean fingernail or the edge of an opening tool to gently pry the battery connector up from its socket on the logic board.
Take care to only pry up on the battery connector, and not the socket on the logic board. If you pry up on the logic board socket, you may break the connector entirely.
you may consider placing a thin non-conductive item between the connector and the socket like a bit of rubber band to prevent any power flowing during this procedure
It was too close to other parts to pry up with either end of plastic tool. Finally used 1 tine of tweezer to lift edge. Came free easily
J'ai pris une loupe pour bien observer l'endroit où placer l'outil.
Magnification is key for many tasks and this is certainly one.
Remove the following Phillips screws securing the front panel assembly cable bracket:
Three 1.2 mm screws
One 1.5 mm screw
One 2.9 mm screw
Do not attempt to insert longer screws into the red marked screw holes. Doing so may result in irreparable damage to the logic board.
There's an other panel with one screw in the middle…
I _love_ the color coding of screws. I know this is a little OCD, but it would be incredibly useful if there were an 8.5 X 11 you could print with indicated homes for where to drop items from each step of disassembly. That is, in the box for step 9, little colored circles for where to place each screw type. As long as you don't jostle the paper, it would make it a lot easier to know exactly where you are in reassembly.
I have done the exact same thing. Created a sheet where each screw goes.
On my iPhone 6 plus, none of the screws listed in this step are removable with the Phillips 00 screwdriver! I got this far and now am stymied because I can't get these four screws out! Any other screwdrivers I should use?
You are absolutely right, and you will strip the heads if you try very hard with the PH00. These screws are all PH000.
I used the 000 bit from the ifixit 54 piece kit.
Actually you don't need to do steps 12 to 18 if you attach the display panel to the iPhone box as shown in step 7 and handle your iPhone with care during the replacement. I didn't disconnect the display panel mainly because the more you work on the interior of your phone the higher is the chance you break something.
That's what I was thinking.
I skipped this series of steps too. I was very careful when removing the battery and never had an issue with the screen leaning back against the box that this battery shipped in. I even broke half of the third strip of adhesive but used a plastic card to slide under the battery and it slowly lifted out without applying heat.
I'm having trouble with one screw not wanting to come out. Any suggestions to keep from stripping the head and getting it?
which screws are which sizes cause i ordered new ones and cant figure it out
I also did not see the need to remove the display assembly for this repair. However I did place a can of corn against the vertically positioned display and then secured the display to the can with a rubber band.
I recommend removing the display assembly, I didn't and somehow damaged the home button cable. At least remove the cover to ease the tension on the cables.
I played around with different screwdrivers to get certain screws out. I made sure I wasn't applying heavy pressure so I wouldn't strip the head. Apple is crazy for doing this to us lol.
Anyways invest in a magnetized mat to organize your screws. It was really difficult to keep things organized and still, especially with these tiny screws…
what happens if i forgot to put the ribbon cable shield back on? the phone is now working but i forgot to put the shield back on and i am missing 2 screws. can i leave the shield off?
@ticoman12 It'll work without the shield, but the connectors may pop out unexpectedly.
Remove the front panel assembly cable bracket from the logic board.
In the next four steps, take care to pry up only on the cable connectors, and not on their sockets on the logic board.
While still supporting the front panel, use a fingernail or the edge of an opening tool to disconnect the front-facing camera and earpiece speaker connector.
Why does the screen need to come off?
Because the cables are delicate, and following steps are easier if phone halves are not flopping around together, especially for amateurs.
Disconnect the home button cable connector.
Make sure the battery is disconnected before you disconnect or reconnect the cable in this step.
Use a plastic opening tool to disconnect the display data cable connector.
When reassembling your phone, the display data cable may pop off the connector. This can result in white lines or a blank screen when powering your phone back on. If that happens, simply reconnect the cable and power cycle your phone. The best way to power cycle your phone is to disconnect and reconnect the battery connector.
The piece of advice about power cycling the phone by disconnecting and reconnecting the battery proved crucial to the success of my repair (camera and lens replacement). At first when charging the phone after closing it, I got a dark, blank screen with an intermittent buzzing noise. After re-opening the phone and making sure all cables had been properly reconnected, I ignored the advice to power cycle the phone. Still all I got was a dark, blank screen (and intermittent buzzing if charging t). Then I opened it a third time (leaving the screen connected and attached at a 90 degree angle) and I only disconnected and reconnected the battery. Voila! When I closed the phone and powered it up, I got the screen to light up!
how did you disconnect and reconnect the battery?
If you've been following the guide, you already disconnected it in this step. To reconnect it, just line up the connector and press it into place.
Finally, disconnect the digitizer cable connector.
When reconnecting the digitizer cable, do not press the center of the connector. Press one end of the connector, then press the opposite end. Pressing in the center of the connector can bend the component and cause digitizer damage.
some images and guidance regarding reassembly would be helpful. You don't need to use the spudger to get them back on: fingers are better because there's a really subtle click you feel when you get them seated properly.
When you're reassembling, a note that this is the step where you should test for proper screen function would be really useful. First time I reassembled, I didn't seat something properly, got all the screws back together and then realized the screen wasn't functioning properly. Had to disassemble back down to step 14 and then re-reassemble.
I am having this issues right now! I have unplugged and plugged in these cables at least 20 times and each time I get white lines. I finally have it to where there are only 4 white lines and I am almost willing to live with it. Any suggestions?
Clean the screen connectors incase they are not making a clean connection
I'm having nightmares with the digitizer connector. Simply can't get it to work unless I'm applying some pressure on the connectors. Everything seems almost microscopically clean. Any suggestions friends?
could it be the replacement screen? test with your old screen and see if you have the same problem.
To ++mattmay002++ Did you power cycle the phone? Check out the comments on the previous step for a how to.
I had issues with it too. When connecting this cable, make sure to rock finger side to side after connecting. It's a wide connector so try to listen for 2 clicks on this one connector. That's how I fixed mine
Re-attaching this cable is the only tricky part to replacing the battery on my 6+. It had a bow on the middle that I had to flatten out before pressing the connector on with finger first on one edge and then on the other. I had white tire tracks on the screen and no touch screen until I connected it correctly. The front has to rest in just the right place on the back while attaching this thing so the cables aren't strained the front doesn't fall down. Small fingers would be a plus at this step.
Reseating these connectors on reassembly is definitely the most difficult part of this repair. It took me several attempts before the lowermost connector would seat properly and I did accidentally bend it slightly in the process. Fortunately I was able to get it straight again and get it to click in. The other three went in fine though and no lasting damage seems to have been done.
Another thing - These cables can become overlapped in the wrong way and make you think they are in a different order than they should be. Eg. it's easy to mix up the ones from step 15 and 17. You can actually unravel the cables and re-layer them on top of each other in any order, so remember this! They look like they're one solid mass but they're not.
Remove the front panel assembly from the rear case.
Never remove the screen without disconnecting the battery. It's possible the back light can be blown and that's a even more difficult repair. Always, ALWAYS, disconnect battery before repairing items. (Unless it's not possible.)
How do you disconnect the battery from the screen?
The Step 11 disconnects the battery :)
I think you mean Step 8 :)
How do you disconnect the battery
I tried it once and
And what? I tried it once and here's a million dollars?
Oh I get it… they got him! :(
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UlznqpBg…
When disassembling the iphone at this point note the cables, and there placement/orientation.
Remove the following screws securing the antenna bracket to the rear case:
One 1.5 mm Phillips #00 screw
One 2.8 mm Phillips #00 screw
This is not the top cellular antenna.
Grasp the 5GHz Wi-Fi antenna bracket with a pair of tweezers and lift it off the iPhone.
Carefully pry the 5GHz Wi-Fi antenna connector up off the logic board with a plastic opening tool.
Grasp the 5GHz Wi-Fi antenna connector with a pair of tweezers and gently lift it from its retaining clip on the logic board.
The two connectors may be coupled by a single adhesive tab. If this is the case, then they may detach as a pair.
Disconnect the power button cable and audio control cable connectors from their respective sockets on the logic board.
Remove the following screws securing the 5GHz Wi-Fi antenna to the rear case:
One 2.8 mm Phillips #00 screw
Two 1.6 mm Phillips #00 screws
One of the two 1.6 mm screws is covered by a black sticker fwi
Use a pair of tweezers to grasp and remove the 5GHz Wi-Fi antenna out of the iPhone.
During reassembly, make sure to place the small washer in the top left corner of the 5GHz Wi-Fi antenna.
Thank you for teaching me, i have my iphone 6 plus just got grayed wifi and circling bluetooth, i tried network reset, didnt work yet, thanks alot
WiFi-Direct