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Loosen the two 4.2 mm-length screws located at the top of the back cover.
The screws have locking washers that prevent the screws from falling off of the back cover. Leave these locking washers on the screws; it is not necessary to remove the washers for this repair guide.
Note: If your top or bottom screen was working before disassembly and doesn't work after reassembly, then it's likely that the connector is loose or dirty or damaged or not clipped or PLACED UPSIDE-DOWN. I had this issue with my Super3DS XL(2015) and it turns out that the reason why my top screen wasn't working after put together, was because I had the top LCD connector upside-down. After I correctly put the connector in, It worked again!
what type screwdriver do i use?!? its so small!!!!
Hold the device so that the cover is facing up.
Using a plastic opening tool, pry off the cover starting at the top right corner.
Hold the edge of the cover to ensure it does not reattach.
Look for the small section below the stylus compartment. Pry off the cover at that point if it is still attached.
Take off the cover of the device and set aside.
Note that on the lower side (opposite to the hinges), there are small hooking tabs. These require you to lift the top (screw side) off towards you, then the lower area.
Insert the plastic opening tool into the opening located on the right side of the battery.
Pry off the battery from the lower casing.
Lift the battery out of the case and set aside.
Using tweezers pull out the rubber bumpers that are located at the top of the device on either side of the game cartridge compartment.
I found that the rubber bumps don't move easily, you'll likely have to use a lot of upward force to move them.
I torn one of the bumpers because I used a needle instead.
You do have a pry a bit. I tore one a little but not that big of a deal.
I think the ease of this step would be subject to the age and condition of the 3DS. Mine came out with minimal leverage using my nails.
try twisting upward
I used a super tiny metal screwdriver to push the bumper against one side and then used the screwdriver to push it up and out
I tried tweezers but they were scraping against the plastic and I didn't want to leave any marks. Ended up using a tiny flat screwdriver to get them out like S Maduras said. Once I got them out I noticed there was a tiny bit of glue on the bottom holding them in place.
Remove the six 6.2 mm screws using a Phillips #00 screwdriver
#000 ifixit philips screwdriver does not fit the 6.2mm screws. Whats the deal?
I have a 000 Phillips from tekton and it worked just fine.
I stripped a good #000 screwdriver, and found that EVERY screw actually fit perfect and snug with a #00 screwdriver. Zero damage to the screws or the screwdriver with the #00.
Don't buy the #000 screwdriver from this site! It's poorly made and strips the screws. I had to drill the screws out and replace them, it was very tricky and nearly broke my DS. Get a screwdriver from an electronics store.
I bought and used the #00 screwdriver, and it worked perfectly for this.
I had also bought the #000, but I never needed it during the entire operation.
All 6 screws are exactly the same so you don't have to worry about mixing them up.
One of the screws in my 3ds XL seems to have its '+' engraving worn off, i can't seem to unscrew it, though the other 5 unscrewed properly. What should I do?
J000 works better here.
Remove the 2.3 mm screw located above the game cartridge slot with a Phillips #00 screwdriver.
Make sure the SD card has been removed. With a plastic opening tool pry off the lower case starting at the bottom edge and working around the perimeter.
Two ribbon cables connect the case to the circuit board. Be careful to not pull the case too hard and rip the ribbon cables.
Make sure that you have removed your SD card, otherwise that'll keep you from completing this step.
Remove the ribbon cables located underneath the left and right bumpers by prying up the base of the cables with a plastic opening tool.
Completely remove the lower case from the rest of the device and set aside.
The IR board is facing the wrong way.
Thank you so much for pointing that out, it was keeping my system from starting up and I thought I blew it!
Yup, that is definitely an upside-down IR board, and will result in a silent post error. It was driving me crazy trying to figure out why the system wouldn't start up.
That's it!! Thanks so much!! I've tinkered around about one month and couldn't get this thing to work… all because I've followed the guide here and looked the picture up twice so I don't put the IR-Board in the wrong way…
Hehe. That would explain why it was not working ;-)
Thank you guys so much! I followed everything faithfully and it was DOA on startup. (Black screens, blue light). The IR board was backwards. These pictures need to be fixed. As-is, it shows a broken 3DS.
Position the device such that the game cartridge slot is located at the top.
Locate the circle pad on the right side of the device.
Remove the two 7.5 mm screws on the upper left and the bottom right corners.
This IR is bad side, diode IR must be UP
Using a plastic opening tool pop off the circle pad joystick.
Do not use excessive force with the plastic opening tool. There is a ribbon attaching the circle pad joystick to the motherboard that will remain attached.
There is a loose washer located in between the circle pad joystick and the circle pad. Use caution and do not lose this piece.
I found it easy to put my finger ontop of the board and apply a little pressure. When i popped off the board, my finger stopped it flying off.
Using the flat head side of the spudger carefully lift up the retaining flap that attaches the circle pad ribbon to the motherboard.
Remove the ribbon and circle pad joystick.
The 'flat head' holds it in place when down, and you can reattach your ribbon cable when it's up, it only needs to be partway in so when you close the flat head, if your joystick board can't move easily in place then you've done it right, it it's too loose, try again to work the ribbon cable under.
The ribbon goes into the left side of the "flat head" right? Not the end that clamps down on the right? I'm having a !&&* of a time sliding the end of the ribbon into the little space between the flat head when it's up and the side of the terminal.
For those of you like me, who got stuck after the last step.
To understand how to actually remove the circle pad, continue with these steps at 21.
Nintendo 3DS Circle Pad Replacement
Hope it helps those after me. I almost ripped some cabling inside thinking I had to take out the motherboard… luckily I didn't.
Just as what monk333y said, follow the Original 3DS steps. They are identical and you don't have to remove anymore big parts. The only annoying part is taking out the circle pad.
I broke the retaining clip. It is not very strong and I used a bit too much force i think in opening the clip or pushing it back down. Thinking of using hot glue or something else to keep the circle pad ribbon in place.
Did the hot glue work? I did the exact same thing now im not sure what to do…
How do you re attach the ribbons? do the just snap right into the motherboard?
thank you monk333y, the author of this guide needs to correct a couple of things and how hard would it be for her to add steps 21 onward from the other guide?
step 11, if you're just replacing the button, you don't need to disconnect the circle pad ribbon from the motherboard.
During re-assemblhy, note that the peg between the joystick mechanism and the circle pad is rectangular, and must fit into the matching rectangular socket on the circle pad.
When testing the touchscreen, make sure you install the analog. Otherwise, the screen will act erratic. Thought I broke a brand new part. Just a heads up!
The entire top part of my circle pad had broken off, so I had no problem getting the old one out. I actually had more trouble getting the ribbon cable back into the clip, and the new circle pad attached to the stick, than any other part.
That said, this was way, way easier than I expected it to be.
Position the device such that the game cartridge slot is located at the top.
Locate the IR board located on the upper right side of the motherboard.
The IR board is installed upside-down in these photos by mistake. Installing it this way will result in your DS failing to start. Note the orientation of your IR board before you remove it, and reinstall it the same way.
Remove the IR board with a plastic opening tool by inserting the tool below the IR board and gently prying up.
The IR board appears to be upside down in this photo.
One assumes they forgot to take the photo before removal and quickly put it back on upside down (accidentally) for the purposes of taking the photo.
Removing the IR board is actually a completely unnecessary step. It's absolutely fine to leave the IR board attached to the motherboard, it's then one less loose piece to go missing ;)
The reason they remove these "easily loosable" pieces is because there's an order to put the board back together or the 3DS won't turn on. This is for replacing the motherboard, which most of the time you will buy and it won't come with the microphone, volume or IR board. Use your head kiddo. If it's so easy to loose these pieces, you should keep better track of them. We might as well just not take out any screws as well because those are very easy to loose
You should add this note to the other uses of this picture; I accidentally knocked that chip off and reinstalled it upside down. I was referencing the photos for replacing the joystick.
You skipped removing the microphopne.
In my 3DXL, there was no IR board: the parts were installed directly on the motherboard.
I agree my 3dxl the IR board is also part of the motherboard and doesnt come off.
Using a plastic opening tool, pry off the Wi-Fi board.
The Wi-Fi board will still be connected by a wire and it is not necessary to completely remove it for this step. Simply place it out of the way for this step.
Component on bottom left was taken off, but not mentioned. Not sure what it does it does, and I'm assuming it's unimportant, but I just wanted to note.
The thing on the bottom left in the little black rubber cover is the mic!
Why not just seperate the wifi board from the antenna now while in your hands? You're going to do it later anyway…
Locate the volume switch on the right side of the motherboard next to the circle pad joystick.
Using tweezers, carefully remove the volume board from the casing. It will still be attached to the motherboard by a ribbon cable.
As previously commented, in this step the microphone (lower left corner) was removed.
This is done by opening the grey flap, removing the ribbon from the motherboard and then either remove it or just let it sit in it's place.
In my experience the motherboard will go around it easily.
Using the flat head side of the spudger carefully lift up the flap that attaches the volume board ribbon to the motherboard.
Remove the volume board and set aside.
This step proved to be unnecessary. It's perfectly fine to leave it attached, and again it's one less small fiddly piece to go missing.
What if I pushed flap too hard and detached and cant find. Now I unable to secure in. Is there a part for this?
Its is the small grey flap that holds in the ribbon.
Remove the black plastic pieces from the lower left and right hand corners with either your fingers or tweezers.
You can also remove these pieces easily by carefully lifting up the 3DS and holding it upside-down. They normally fall right out, but don't lose them!
Using the flat head side of the spudger carefully lift up the flap that attaches the two smaller ribbons to the motherboard.
These flaps are located on the top right and bottom right side of the motherboard.
Remove the ribbons from the flap.
For the first picture on step 17, (the one at the top of the board) what does that cable connect to? My clip broke.
MMM as far as I can tell it looks like it's for the touch screen as it plugs into p13 and is the same plug type as p10, p12 and p17 and a couple others. Could be wrong though :)
Using the flat head side of the spudger carefully lift up the flaps that attach the wider ribbons to the motherboard.
For the wider ribbons make sure to lift the flaps from the white side.
Remove the ribbons from the opened flaps.
Note: the top right wider ribbon is for the camera, the thinner ribbon in the top right is for the speakers and the bottom ribbon is to the upper lcd. You will want to ensure you stack the ribbons appropriately when putting the system back together.
Had some trouble with this: Not exactly sure why, but when after successfully replacing the screen and beginning to resemble, while reinserting the wide ribbon for the lower LCD (p8) it seems that the white locking clip unhinged itself from the connector, and bent some of the pins. The ribbon now won't fully insert… Can't figure out if I've somehow completely ruined my 3ds. Mostly concerned about my save data that's not on my sdcard.
Using the flat head side of the spudger carefully lift up the flap that attaches the ribbon to the motherboard.
For this flap lift from the black side.
Remove the ribbon from the flap.
Reassembly: This wide ribbon is the one with the BLACK STRIPE and goes on the upper (visible) side of the motherboard during reassembly.
Remove ten 5.5 mm screws that are located around the face of the motherboard.
It's not a *!&*^#% 5.5mm, it's 0.05mm probably. I ended up using wrong screws and punctured the housing. So wrong!
I think those 5,5 mm mean the length (!) of the screws. The heads are normal little Philipps, perhaps #00 or #000.
The motherboard will still be attached at the top right hand corner so do not completely detach it at this point.
Carefully lift the board straight up just enough to clear the two plastic mounts located near the top corners of the cartridge slot.
Gently flip the motherboard over the top side.
Laying it down like this puts too much stress on the ribbon cable. I find it better to release the connector while the board is tilted at a 90 degree angle to the body of the 3DS. Less chance of damage to the top screen cable that way.
Using the flat head side of the spudger carefully lift up the flap that attaches the wider ribbon on the upper right side to the motherboard.
Make sure to lift the flap from the white side.
Remove the ribbon from the opened flap.
Set the motherboard aside.
So I tore this wire is this the visual or something?? Please help
I tore this wire too. Am I able to buy it individually?
How do you get this cable back in? It is way too short…
Tweezers, steady hand, and a little luck.
So, before step 23 do you put the bottom half of the 3ds xl back together?
When fixing, I can't put the 2 wires in the connector. HELP!
Open the device such that the upper LCD is on top.
Using tweezers remove the four rubber pieces that are in all four corners.
I find tweezers can cause damage to the rubber screw covers too frequently. Using a fine sewing needle and prying them up from the corner helps to avoid damage to them seeing as you have to replace them later. You can see the one in the bottom right corner here is damaged. Using an exacto knife or razor blade is also too risky.
I removed the rubber covers and the screws aren't there.
pry them up from corner at an angle to get underneath them. you will have a harder time trying to pull them up from the sides.
Noah It's possible you saw the shiny part underneath the rubber. They're supposed to come off with the rubber but I screwed up on the last one and didn't get that part out with the rubber. You might be seeing that. It's actually more difficult to get those out :/
Remove the four 4.3 mm screws located underneath the four rubber pieces with a Phillips #00 screwdriver head.
Flip over the device and close the hinge.
Position your fingers at the top of the hinge and push downwards in order to push the cover downwards away from the hinge. It only moves 2mm (1/8").
Mine was pretty tight so I had to force my plastic spudger into the opening to get anywhere
Once the top case is loose and unclipped, remove it from the DS.
Remove the screw that is holding 3D mechanism toggle button in place.
Carefully pull off the ribbons that connect the camera and speakers to the Upper LCD.
The ribbons are attached with adhesives so take caution while removing.
Remove the two small ribbons located on the upper left corner.
Using a spudger lift up the black hinges that connect the ribbons to the bracket.
Pull the ribbons out of the bracket.
The problem with reassembly is getting the LCD Flex cable back and through the hinge. It is very very likely to rip the cable due to the angle of the cable and the wind up "tube" you create to push the cable through the hinge.
Remember if you rip the LCD cable you'll need to get a completely new LCD.
Open the hinge and carefully pop off the Upper LCD using your fingers.
Gently remove the ribbon from the hinge.
Do not lose the tiny fabric and rubber water-resistant rectangles that cover the two speakers; they often fall out once the speakers are removed.
The screen's cover glass can be replaced or transferred to your new screen. The cover is easily scratched by metal tools; use plastic or your fingernail to separate it.
Adhere the cover to the new screen by using thin adhesive around the edges, or by reusing the old adhesive.
I would recommend removing the left side hinge, hard to get to it but it does slide out just like the smaller 3ds. Otherwise you will tear the ribbon cables putting them back thru.
I was very precise in my reassembly which overall did take much longer than 30mins. After recharging, I can power up no problem and both screens come on with backlight! But no operating system starts up. I have lights, power, charging, wifi… But no system startup!! My IR board is correct (upside down from the above pic, I used another video guide) but I do not know what else could cause this?? Any ideas of what could be loose/missed connection causing this??
Don't know if you fixed this but it could be caused by a bad wifi board. Have you tried replacing that?
Sweet buttery babies, removing the ribbon cables through the hinge is the most stressful thing I've done all week. You need to add more detailed pictures of this, the hardest step.
Please see my reply, hope it helps. James @ RGR
I found it easier to remove the hinge on the other side (see https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qWmoXDuU… for how) and then do the cables that way, wrapping them (and a touch of tape) around a small screwdriver to help feed through… But holy crap was that the hardest part of this.
Had it not been for that, this would have been a 20 minute repair, instead, first time, 3 hours… wtf
Why has nobody posted explaining how to seperate the middle sections? It's actually pretty simple to do. Open the remaining parts of the 3DS XL to the 2nd widest setting (not 180 degrees, just before that). Once done, in the right hinge there is a shiny black piece with a gap in it. Through this gap you can see the white of the hinge. Use a small flathead screwdriver to nudge the hinge towards the center of the 3DS XL. Be gentle, it will slide far enough so you can almost seperate the top half. If you do it right it will be just shy of clearing, so gently bend the right hinge just a millimetre or two and you will be able to pull the barrel hinge side clear. Don't go nuts, as you still have to carefully thread the ribbon cables out through the slit of doom, making sure not to get them caught on the wifi cable. Continued in reply…
Once free, gently pry the top screen out (it's stuck with an adhesive strip round the front of the screen) and flip it downwards. Pull the wifi cable through the ring and away from the ribbons, then roll your 3 ribbon cables up tight and gently pull those too though the ring. Don't forget to remove the black adhesive strip and plastic screen lens to put onto your new screen. Follow the directions in reverse to put your 2 halves together and follow the rest of this guide in reverse to get your 3DS XL working as good as new again. I hope this helps someone, if I get time one day I will take some photos to show how to do this. James @ RGR
I was wondering why I can't seem to get upper lcd cable to go in properly it's always setup upside down when I roll the three ribbon cables together? You have any input on that? Thanks
Thank u, very good to explain how to extract these ribbons. Need some photos to update this tutorial…
Your comment saved this project for me. This guide, as written, woefully underportrays the difficulty of not damaging any of the ribbon connectors for this step. You are MUCH better off separating the hinges (The Retro Gaming Repair, paired with YouTube videos, are a great resource) and working the ribbons through the metal hinge liner and the wide slot than trying to worm the new screen ribbon through the hinge liner and much smaller hole while still connected.
This is ridiculous. Tore the ribbon trying to get it through the hinge. New screen is toast.
What the crap. I can't understand what you are saying how to put ribbon through hinges, and I am so confused!!!!!!!!!
WiFi-Direct