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Remove the battery pack cover.
Remove batteries.
We recommend using a nylon spudger for this step. A metal spudger is shown.
Grip the controller firmly to remove the side handles, wedging a spudger into the seam between the front and handle plates.
Pry the side plate away from the front plate by moving the spudger back and forth. You will need to do this all the way around the side plate's seam.
Start prying the side plate off underneath the trigger, this makes it easier to disconnect the other clips connecting the side plate to the backplate.
One you take it off, is it possible to click it back in?
As long as you don't exceed the couple tons you need to take it off you should be able to put it back.
There is a hidden screw located in the middle of the controller behind the label.
Use a screwdriver and punch a hole directly in the center of the label.
You may also lift the label if you do not want to puncture it.
Remove the five 10mm screws located on the back of the controller using the T8 Security Torx Screwdriver.
i damaged my screws. how do i get the screws out?
wait. i just watched a video guide on ifixit's youtube channel about damaged screws. i'll try those methods.
It's a t8 or t9 security bit btw, I got the top two out with a regular T8, but the bottom two and middle needed a T9 Security bit.
All five faceplate/backplate screws in the controller I disassembled were T8 security fasteners.
Am I doing something wrong because I got the tool it said I needed and got the middle screw out but the others have a bump or something in the center of the screw and it won't fit.
The T8 is only good for the middle screw on my One S controller. The others require something bigger
These requires SECURITY Torx bits (they have a cannulated hole in the driver). I don't believe the iFixIt branded driver is cannulated but you can buy a set of bits from DeWalt DWAX200 which is overkill but has what you need.
The driver that iFixIt sells is cannulated.
where do you get this dumb ass screw driver
iFixit Store #IF145-027-3
You can bypass it with a 1.5mm flathead.
thank you for this. worked for me
Remove the backplate.
Remove the faceplate.
You may let the rumble motors hang freely out of their sockets.
De-solder the soldered joints while holding the red and black wires down on the top motherboard.
De-solder the black and gray wires that are attached to the top motherboard.
Remove the rumble motors and set them aside.
Be careful while using the soldering iron not to damage other components or hurt yourself.
For information on how to solder, click here.
Steps 6-8 aren't completely necessary, and are very risky if you aren't good at soldering. It would seem the only reason to remove the motherboard and mess with all this soldering is just so you can reach both screws on the trigger in step 10. However, you can reach them already with a small-bodied screwdriver. Although you might have to rest the screwdriver on the black square processor to reach the bottom screw, it shouldn't damage the processor or motherboard to jimmy that screw out.
like mentioned by 'Robert Rapier' you can skip the de-soldering in most cases,
for example cleaning or changing the buttons is doable, but the grey and black wires are pretty short
and wired through the inner case so it can get a bit fiddly and you have to be careful not to damage them in the process.
If you have a soldering station around i would still recommend using it.
Unscrew the two 7mm T6 screws located near the rumble motor sockets.
Are these just T6 screws or Torx security T6 that is cannulated?
Firmly grip sides of motherboard near the middle.
Lift upwards while slightly wiggling the motherboard forward and backward.
Lifting the motherboard will require some force.
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