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Remove the battery. If not removed, current electric charge may cause damage and/or shock.
Remove the 15 screws around the under body, set aside.
Remove the 5 screws from the battery compartment
Loosen the two screws from the memory shield and lift off
Remove the mini-pci wireless card and memory, place in an anti-static bag.
Remove the two screws from the hard drive shield and lift off.
Lift out the hard drive by grasping the plastic tab and pulling gently. Place in an anti-static bag.
Remove the one keyboard-branded screw in the memory compartment, and the one screw from the hard drive compartment.
Use an unbent paper clip or some other stiff wire-type tool to poke in the tiny hole in the cd tray, and grasping the tray firmly, pull slowly out of the laptop.
Remove the 3 screws exposed by removing the drive
Oh I forgot to mention I got a new motherboard for 100 and it's working again:)
Quote from tabormeister:
Oh I forgot to mention I got a new motherboard for 100 and it's working again:)
Be extra 110% sure to update the BIOS on that thing ASAP to keep it from happening again! The dying motherboard is a problem that plagues _all_ AMD-based HP dvx000's that haven't had their BIOS updated. Go to HP's site, enter your full model number (e.g. dv6258se - check the white sticker on the bottom), and look for a BIOS update. That'll help to prevent the problem in the future, but be sure to keep the heat sink clean!
Quote from Matt Falcon:
Be extra 110% sure to update the BIOS on that thing ASAP to keep it from happening again! The dying motherboard is a problem that plagues _all_ AMD-based HP dvx000's that haven't had their BIOS updated. Go to HP's site, enter your full model number (e.g. dv6258se - check the white sticker on the bottom), and look for a BIOS update. That'll help to prevent the problem in the future, but be sure to keep the heat sink clean!
Oh dude, definitely did that already 1st thing after I put it back together. I just checked again to be extra sure.
and as for the heatsink… it's got Arctic MX-2 on it, so I don't see how it could be overheating, though it does generally run in the upper 70's (laptop cooling fans I blame).
Quote from mac4life:
use your optical drive and harddrive in enclosures
No need, sir! the laptop again lives. I might update the teardown with pictures of it running.
Quote from mac4life:
did you put 7 on it?
I will eventually, but Vista is acceptable for now.
Quote from mac4life:
what version
Home Premium. it's decent with service pack 2.
Is there a wire with the cd player and can it be replaced after this step
Quote from saadrana2003:
Is there a wire with the cd player and can it be replaced after this step
What exactly do you mean?… wire?
also, which step?
Quote from tabormeister:
What exactly do you mean?… wire?
also, which step?
Regarding step 6… I can not fully understand how the cd player is connected to the rest of the frame .
Quote from saadrana2003:
Regarding step 6… I can not fully understand how the cd player is connected to the rest of the frame .
Ahh!
It doesn't have a wire or anything, there's a connector that plugs right in when you push the unit in, when you pull it out it… well, it pulls right out. no need to disconnect anything but the screws, just pull it out.
Pop off the bezel closest to the screen, taking care not to damage the delicate ribbon cables underneath.
Unclip the three cables connecting the bezel to the laptop, lift away.
If you are struggling to get the bezel disconnected try closing the laptop and flipping it over. I did this and when I opened it again the bezel disconnected by itself.
Lift up the back of the keyboard and slide it slowly towards the screen. Unclip the ribbon cable near the touchpad. Set the keyboard aside.
Time to take off the screen.
A. Remove the screw on the left that holds the clip down, unclip it.
B. Remove the four screws at the base of the screen, and lift out, taking care with the antenna wires on the right.
C. Thread them out of the clips, towards the touchpad. You can then pull them through the board, checking on the bottom to make sure they're free.
Remove the screw on the right, and remove the back bezel.
Remove the three screws from the top of the touchpad bezel.
Remove the two standoffs on the bottom (5mm socket)
Unclip this clip and lift off the touchpad bezel
The two ribbon cables in the third image (one I took out before taking the picture) are simply seated in their clips, you will need to apply some force to get them out, just be careful to apply it straight away from the clips.
Remove these four screws, and pull the express card module away from the motherboard.
Remove these three screws, and then these clips, (you can get at them better after you remove the screws, and the larger of the two should come apart first) and lift the board away from the shell, taking care with the audio jack cable.
You can now unclip the audio jack cable.
Heatsink-there are four screws to remove and the clip, and it simply lifts off. The processor comes out by turning this switch to the unlock position. Quite an easy last step.
You might want to unscrew both the power/USB connector board and the sound socket boards as it is easier not to disconnect them and they come away with the motherboard nicely. Replace them and guide the cables prior to reinserting the motherboard.
Voila! This layout is without disassembling the heat sink, but I feel it's adequate. To reassemble, simply reverse the steps in this guide. Good luck!
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